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1. 60s Girls Fashion Catalog
2. Denim Culottes 1960s

Culottes are an item of clothing worn on the lower half of the body. The term can refer to split skirts, historical men's breeches, or women's under-pants; this is an example of fashion-industry words taken from designs across history, languages and cultures, then being used to describe different garments, often creating confusion among historians and readers. The French word culotte is (a pair of) panties, pants, knickers, trousers, shorts, or (historically) breeches; derived from the French word culot, meaning the lower half of a thing, the lower garment in this case.

In English-speaking history culottes were originally the knee-breeches commonly worn by gentlemen of the European upper-classes from the late Middle Ages or Renaissance through the early nineteenth century. The style of tight trousers ending just below the knee was popularized in France during the reign of Henry III (1574–1589).^[1] Culottes were normally closed and fastened about the leg, to the knee, by buttons, a strap and buckle, or a draw-string. During the French Revolution of 1789–1799, working-class revolutionaries were known as the 'sans-culottes' – literally, 'without culottes' – a name derived from their rejection of aristocratic apparel.^[2] In the United States, the first five Presidents, from George Washington through James Monroe, wore culottes according to the style of the late 18th century.^[3][4]

In military uniforms[edit]

European military uniforms incorporated culottes as a standard uniform article, the lower leg being covered by either stockings, leggings, or knee-high boots. Culottes were a common part of military uniforms during the European wars of the eighteenth-century (the Great Northern War, the War of the Spanish Succession, the War of the Austrian Succession, the Seven Years' War, the French and Indian War, and the Revolutionary War).

Historical Japanese field workers and military samurai wore hakama that were sometimes tight at the bottom as French military culottes. Wider bifurcated wrap-skirt hakama were for horse-back riding. Eighteenth and nineteenth-century European women introduced culottes cut with a pattern looking like long hakama, hiding their legs while riding horses. Today Aikido and Kendo masters wear long hakama, to hide their feet from opponents.

Culottes for women[edit]

In modern English, the use of the word culottes can mean a close fitting pair of pants ending at the knees,^[5] such as Lady Diana Spencer popularised during the early 1980s. The term is used as such in the United Kingdom and Canada. In this sense, culottes are similar to the American knickerbockers (knickers), except whereas the latter are loose in fit. Culottes can also, in some cases, describe a split or bifurcatedskirt^[6] or any garment which 'hangs like a skirt, but is actually pants.'^[1] During the Victorian Era (mid- to late-nineteenth century European culture) long split skirts were developed for horseback riding so that women could sit astride a horse with a man's saddle rather than riding side-saddle. Horse-riding culottes for women were controversial because they were used to break a sexual taboo against women riding horses when they were expected to hide their lower limbs at all times. Later, split skirts were developed to provide women more freedom to do other activities as well, such as gardening, cleaning, bike riding, etc. and still look like one is wearing a skirt.^[7]

School uniforms[edit]

Culottes are used in school uniforms for girls. They can be used along with skirts, or they may be used as a replacement for skirts. Culottes are worn as part of a uniform mainly to primary and middle schools. Culottes were also part of the uniform of UK Brownie Guides^[8] up until recently, when the uniform was modernized and the traditional brown culottes (and the navy blue culottes worn by the Girl Guides) were replaced.

Skorts[edit]

In place of the term culotte, the term skort (a portmanteau for skirt and shorts) is more widely used in some areas. While some garments sold as culottes resemble short trousers, to truly be a skort it needs to look like a skirt. Thus, they differ from trousers or shorts by being much fuller at the bottom (hem) than at the waist. A skort is shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt^[9] or short pant legs with a same length or longer skirt sewn over the top.^[10]

Some culottes have a part sewn over only the front, while some are shorts with a skirt sewn over them. While these may not be completely the same as skorts, they are often called by either name, so either term can apply.

Demi-denims[edit]

A cut which emerged in the 21st century - a combined silhouette of pants which appear to be made out of two separate garments. They look like slim fit jeans from behind, like a skirt or culottes worn on top of slim fit jeans - from the front.^[11]

Contemporary French under-pants[edit]

The term 'culottes' in French is now used to describe women's panties, an article of clothing that has little or no relation to the historic men's culotte breeches, except that in French, calling something 'culottes' is like calling them 'bottoms'. The historical French term 'sans-culottes' which was once the rejection of aristocrats' breeches, is now used colloquially to mean the same as an English colloquialism 'going commando' or not wearing under-pants.^[12]

References[edit]

1. ^ ^abCalasibetta, Charlotte Mankey; Tortora, Phyllis (2010). The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion(PDF). New York: Fairchild Books. ISBN978-1-56367-973-5. Retrieved 2011-02-17.
2. ^Soboul, Albert (1972). The Sans-Culottes: The Popular Movement and Revolutionary Government, 1793–1794. New York: Doubleday. pp. 2–3. ISBN0-691-00782-9. Retrieved 2011-02-17.
3. ^Digital History, Steven Mintz. 'Digital History'. Digitalhistory.uh.edu. Archived from the original on July 23, 2010. Retrieved April 20, 2010.
4. ^Whitcomb, John; Whitcomb, Claire (2002). Real Life at the White House: 200 ... – Google Knihy. ISBN9780415939515. Retrieved April 20, 2010.
5. ^Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey; Tortora, Phyllis (2010)The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion. New York: Fairchild Books: ISBN978-1-56367-973-5.
6. ^'WordNet Search - 3.0'.^{[dead link]}
7. ^'Culottes Skirt is a Skort'. www.apparelsearch.com.
8. ^'Bedfordshire Guiding - History of Brownie Uniforms'. Archived from the original on August 23, 2011.
9. ^'Glossary of Fashion Design Terms'. Fashion Design School Guys.com. Archived from the original on March 18, 2006. skort - Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt.
10. ^'Customer Service Glossary'. Olsen's Mill Direct. Archived from the original on March 18, 2006. skort Short pant legs with a same length or longer skirt sewn over the top
11. ^Klerk, Amy de (March 2, 2017). 'The most surprising micro-trend of 2017 has arrived'. Harper's BAZAAR.
12. ^'sans-culotte', Passons de la sans-soutif de l'Upper East Side à la sans-culotte de Times Square, And from no bra on the Upper East Side ... ... to no panties in Times Square.

Culottes are a form of split skirt. They are usually made full or calf length, and consist of a pair of loose, flowing trousers which strongly resemble a skirt until the wearer engages in vigorous physical activity. The shorter version is a skort, a pair of shorts with a flap of fabric in the front that turns them into a more modest skirt. Many active women who believe in wearing modest clothing for religious reasons wear culottes, as they allow a full range of movement without the potential for exposure.

Originally, the word was used to refer to trousers worn by men. Women's fashion appears to have appropriated the word in the 1800s, when women started wearing culottes so that they could ride horses astride instead of sidesaddle. The split skirt configuration was ideal for riding safely while preserving modesty norms. Culottes were worn by many women of modest families well into the 1900s, and were often sewn in fashionable patterns for a variety of tastes and classes.

In the 1960s, culottes became fashionable, and they were known as hostess pajamas. These trousers were a little more slimly cut, so they more strongly resembled pants, and they were often sewn in brightly patterned fabric with matching tops. Usually, culottes were sold in a set with the top, and were made from fabrics like silk or rayon, which were soft, shiny, and flowing.

60s Girls Fashion Catalog

Some consumers confuse culottes with skorts, which combine a short skirt with shorts. A true pair of culottes could genuinely be mistaken for a skirt, and they are not designed to fall above the knee, as skorts are. They can be made from any material, although because many women wear them for modesty, they are often thick, rather than sheer. Culottes can also come in a wide variety of patterns, and many are pleated or gathered for visual interest. Some beginning sewers undertake them as a sewing project because they are relatively easy to make.

Denim Culottes 1960s

Many conservative Christian women who belong to sects that preach modesty wear culottes, as do some Muslim women. These trousers give women who would otherwise feel restricted to skirts an opportunity to be physically active. The full coverage the offer is almost more modest than a skirt, because culottes are less likely to flip up with intense physical activity or a brisk wind. Their popularity with women as a modesty garment makes them readily available at stores which specialize in modest clothing, and some department stores may also carry a small section of culottes.